A Motorcycle Dairy of Desert-ed Thar

After a gap of 1 year I had my Motorcycle road trip. This time my mission was to explore The Thar desert, in Rajasthan with my best buddy Shanky. Everything was according to our plan, all the equipments and a necessary things was arranged and we were ready for our trip. We were supposed to sleep early but our friend Mr. Rahul Gambhir, who is very p-u-n-t-u-a-l and has been awarded many times for his punctuality in the form of swears and abuses, helped us to be up till 2 O Clock. Subsequently, we finished packing and chatting by around 2’o’clock and then slept till 6:30 am, as opposed to our plan of sleeping early and start the trip at 4 am. But, whatever happens…..happens for good. After dropping Rahul at Vasant Kunj Bus Stop, our journey started. Time 7’o’clock.

Our adrenaline was pumping up, as soon we crossed Gurgaon toll. Excitement was gushing as RPMs were rising.  Enroute Rewari and Ateli our first stop was at Narnaul,  around 150 kms, where we had our breakfast. Here we took a little more time as Shanky’s luggage was creating problem, so we had to reinstall it. In all my trips, the first halt that we take we rest for a good amount of time, whatever the reason may be, but after the first halt we got a good speed and consistency. After the breakfast we left for Jhunjunu, where in between Shanky took a wrong turn and we both went solo for a while. Due to the crowded Gol-Chakar (roundabout) at Singhana, Shanky crossed me and I couldn’t see it. I was driving slowly on the correct track when one of the locals asked me if I was looking for an Enfield wala….yahi se bhagate huay legaya hai . Just then Shanky called me and said he reached around 35 Kms further at Chidawa. I was surprised in just few minutes he rode 20 miles!!!! I didn’t waste my time started my bike and gave the accelerator to the end. The road was really amazingly clean straight road with very less traffic, and then I realized how he fired (after all it was a BULLET aswell) the 20 miles in few minutes. I wanted to stop for a while and explore the beauty of that beautiful road, with blossomed Sunflower both side of the road. The panorama of that particular stretch of road was simply incredible, but I couldn’t stop and took pics as I was in a hurry to catch-up Shanky at Chidwa.

When I reached Chidwa, Shanky was waiting at a tea stall, and he was chit chatting with localaties. Soon we resumed our journey, The road from Fatepur till Bikaner was amazingly beautiful and straight long stretch of around 200 Kms, One  can even close his eyes and ride as there will be very few vehicles’ in the road. But you will get some, (few) under construction road in between to make you slow down. The view of sunset while in a road trip is spectacular and that too if it is in a place where you never been before, made it more special for me. Now we realized that we are little late, so we decided not to stop anywhere, we made little more rush. But as the sun set, it became dark. Now the major problem was there were no streetlights, and also we were on NH 11 heading to Bikaner which was under construction. Due to the construction and the dust which affected our vision and since it was dark our visibility was very poor due to which our judgment to anticipate the oncoming traffic was crucially affected and made it a very difficult and risky task to reach our destination for the day. BIKANER

By around 7 PM, somehow we managed to reach Benisar. After the sun-set this was the only place we found a dhaba. We were very much tiered and hungry. We had our stuff parantha’s and soon after finished the dinner we left to Bikaner. By around 10 PM we reached Bikaner, where at the very starting itself we found one of our listed hotel which we already had chose : Vijay Camel Man Guest House, we entered and checked the rooms and after a slight negotiation we managed to get the AC Room for Rs.1ooo. Both of us were really tiered after finishing all formalities we checked into our room and dozed off ASAP.

After getting fresh up and having our tea, we checked out and geared-up for Karni Matha temple, around 25 Kms from Daislok. Usually this temple is isolated and very few people visits but due to the Dusshera time lots of devotees were visiting the famous Karni Matha Rat temple. I was eager to explore the Rat temple. As our luggage was tugged on our bikes, removing it and visiting the temple would’ve wasted a lot of time. So we decided that one of us will go inside the temple, if it is worth visiting then next one also will go. So I went to the famous Karni Matha rat temple. We have to remove our shoes to enter the temple. And for camera, they will charge 20 Rs. As soon as you enter the main gate you will start seeing rat running here and there. When I put my 4th step one rat passed through my feet and I jumped off, took a snap, and went back. It was enough for me; I didn’t have the go further.

Then we started our journey to Jaiselmer, for which we had to cross Bikaner again. Somewere near Kanji Ki Sird, we stopped for lunch. The foods prepared by the Rajasthani’s are amazing, initially I thought that the food won’t be as good as Punjab’s but I was wrong. Marwari cuisine was also great; here we had a Makki ki Roti, with amazing Dal fry, and Panner Burji. Here people don’t use much oil and ghee. Clean, healthy, natural food is what you get mostly. In the afternoon when sun is at its best, on top of our head, it was really hot, and also as we were all geared up with our armor and jackets we were more exhausted. While riding we don’t feel that hot, but as you stop you feel the heat with the gear and the jacket on.

In this trip, what we commonly found unusual was that the locals were so surprised to see us, as if we were some aliens; never seen before. Where ever we stopped, people came to us, asked us where we were going, where we came from, why we are going and checked out our armour and stuff…… so for us it was a bit like a celebrity kind of affair! We felt very proud as we were receiving so much attention; very different from my Ladakh trip where it was a common sight to see geared up bikers on trips. One thing I learned from my celebrity experience here is that these locals can eat a lot of your time while halting; which can mismanage your trip schedules. One simple solution; tell them that you’re a student, that cuts off a lot of questions.   

The NH15 is a highway which should be renamed or regarded as a “Runway”. Riding on it is like a heavenly experience. One can test his bike’s top speed very easily. With the road looking clear till the horizon and the excellent condition it is, I just fell in love riding on this road. But with the romance comes the ugly reality that one may fall asleep(less possible on 2 wheeler) easily. So we took frequent breaks to revitalize ourselves by having tang & glucose directly without H2O. By around 7 PM we reached Jaisalmer and as we were about to enter the city, we were chased by a lot of hotel touts chasing us as it was lean season. But we were not happy with their options and moved ahead for a while. After checking our hotel options list we reached Hotel Tokyo Palace; good enough and close to the Golden fort as we required. The hotel was absolutely worth staying for Rs.1200, AC room with twin bed and all modern amenities along with swimming pool facilities.

Early morning we got up and got ready for Jaisalmer sightseeing. At the street market we had some amazing snaky breakfast of Mirch Pakorda & Kachori; literally a mouthwatering experience, delicious hot Jalebi as sweet dish. Next, we visit the Mandhir Palace for which the entry cost Rs.60 and for Camera Rs.30; the entry fee was being used for the maintenance of the Palace and of the family and also was paid to the Government. The palace was not up to that mark; it’s a heritage palace which is still being preserved by the Maharaja’s family and the great grandson is taking care. Later we went to Golden Fort, i.e., Jaisalmer Fort. Inside the palace it was more like a citadel full of shops and guest houses. We were allowed to take our bike inside the fort and so we had our sightseeing in bike. Later we came back to the hotel and checked out from there and left for Sam Desert, enroute visited Kuldara Village.

At Sam you will find lots of Resorts and tents. We didn’t  make any booking in advance but enquired about the rate. When we reached there and after  a lot of bargaining we got one tent from Mehar adventure Camp for Rs.1000 Per head which included night stay dinner, Camel safari, breakfast and traditional Rajasthani cultural Show. At dinner we experienced the amazing Rajasthani thali which included Dal-Bhati, gate ki sabji, aaloo ki sabji, Kher Shangri, Rice, roti and at the end as desert Surma. The accommodation part was not that good as the tent had no fan and had a lot of mosquitoes singing around our ears and feasting on our blood. After the whole day’s ride we didn’t get a good sleep as the mosquito problem was getting worse; ; even Odomos didn’t stand a fight. Finally, I decided to take the mattress outside the tent and it was quite breezy and dozed off in no time. Early morning the Odomos and the dew started to feel quite sticky and I suddenly realized that I was sleeping outside the tent….in the desert. I started shivering and went inside the tent; remembered geography taught in school about desert type of climate, hot during day and cold at night!

Early morning we got ready and had our breakfast. Later we left Sam and drove towards Jodhpur. Enroute we stopped near Pokran at a dhaba to recharge ourselves. While having chach we were chatting with the Dhaba owner and some others about a very distinctive observation that we 2 bachelors from Delhi observed; we couldn’t find much girls outside and most of them were not quite beautiful (no offence to anyone; just a personal thought) as compared to Delhi, but they argued that there are lots of beautiful girls as well but they don’t get out of home, or if they get out they cover their faces. Later we drove and stopped somewhere 50 Kms before Jodhpur, where we experienced delicious Sev tamatar Ki sabji with Roti, and around 6’Oclock we reached Jodhpur.

After searching for hotels we got at last a guest house near to clock tower. Sarvar Guest house which was an average guest house with homely atmosphere. Normally Jodhpur hotels are expensive, so the convenient place to stay is at a good guest house which will be economical as well hospitable. And if the guest house is located in the main city then you can experience the culture and lifestyle of Jodhur very closely.

Early morning we visited Mehrangarh fort then Mandore garden, enroute had some juice and after checking out from the guest house drove towards Ajmer by around 2’o’clock; enroute we crossed a village named Bar, where we saw the beautiful sunset from the highway; it was really panoramic. From Bar to Ajmer, the road was awesome, like heavenly experience but due to the sunset and darkness we were not able to explore the place very well. After reaching Ajmer, I decided not to stay here rather head towards Pushkar as Ajmer didn’t have much to see. So we moved ahead, enroute we searched for typical Ajmeri dhaba where we could have good non vegetarian dinner, but we were not able to spot any. So we decided to have dinner in Pushkar itself and by around 9:30 PM we reach and got a room at Hotel Sun-Set. The Hotel was average, but its restaurant was at an amazing location facing the lake side and they had some very good collection of music’s which added more peace to the ambience. After check in we had our dinner at the lake side restaurant with the music playing behind us and the lake in front, clear twinkling sky above, cool breezy climate as it was a valley; both of us were appreciating the fact that we didn’t plan to stay in Ajmer for the night! I didn’t know Pushkar was so amazingggg!

 

Next day morning we had our Pushkar city visit and temple tour. We decided to have street food as breakfast so we had chai with Pava & Dal Pakwan which cost just 50 bucks for two. It was delicious aswell as cheap. After some shopping we checked-out from the hotel and left to Jaipur. In between at Dudu we stopped for have our lunch and around 3 O clock we reached Jaipur. We checked in at a Boutique hotel named Chitra Khata, for which we were charged Rs.600. After freshened up we got ready for our Jaipur sightseeing but by that time the forts were closed so we went to Chowki Dhani to have our dinner. When we reached found huge crowd there, among some people like us were thinking weather to go in or not. Yes, one will think twice before entering it to have thali which starts from Rs.500. We were like OMG when saw the price. So we had no option rather choosing at least that basic thali of 500 and get into that complex. Inside it’s like a mela in a village; there are lots of things like small games, handicrafts, theme parks, etc. but we first concentrated on our Rs. 500 thali and had as much as we can so as to get the worth of the price. No doubt the Thali was amazing and so was the hospitality of the waiters who were serving.

Next day morning we had our Jaipur sightseeing of Amber Fort, Naragarh fort, Junagarh fort, Pana meena ka kund and by afternoon we had checked out and had our lunch on the highway itself. By around 4 O clock we left Jaipur and as we were getting closer to Delhi our excitement started degrading as thoughts of going to office, getting back to routine, same old crowded roads, crawled into our minds. The week long amazing trip was going to end, as we were getting close to Gurgaon; traffic was increasing and as we crossed the Gurgaon toll by around 11’o’clock I don’t know from where, but fireworks lit up the sky like a grand welcome. As it was late and we were starving, we thought of having dinner so went to KFC at Priya, but Only McD was opeded so had some burger and went to home. Reach home by around 12!  And the beautiful trip came to an END.

Leh Ladakh Bike Trip

Khardung La has a conduct in a clouds and a tallness in doubt. Khardung La is an extraordinary place and “only one in a world” experience. The sights on a approach to and from this place are illusory over words. Khardung La (la means pass in Tibetan) (elevation 5359 m) is a high soaring pass located in a Ladakh region, Jammu and Kashmir, India. The general spelling is used here, yet it is locally spelt “Khardong La”. The pass on a Ladakh Range lies north of Leh and is a gateway to a Shyok and Nubra valleys. The Siachen Glacier lies partway adult a latter valley. Built in 1976, it was non-stop to engine vehicles in 1988 and has given seen many automobile, motorbike, soaring biking and Group Tour. Maintained by a Indian Army’s Corps, a pass is strategically critical to India as it is used to lift essential reserve to a Siachen.

As we are planning to explore the world’s highest motorable road in the month of July 2012. Those who are likely to join our group can post a mail to wwilson.tom@gmail.com or shanky.panicker@gmail.com or you may even post your view and suggestion in the below comment box or please follow the trip in http://globetrooper.com/bike-trip-to-khardung-la-2012. The itinerary is as show below.

Itinerary :

Day 01: (July 18) : Delhi – Chandigarh (250 km)-Kullu (320 kms)
Early morning proceed to Kullu via Chandigarh.

Day 02: (July 19) : Kullu – Manali (40kms) – Keylong (121kms):
Wake up in the early morning and start riding to Manali, visit Hadimba Devi Temple, Tibetan Monastery and Vashisht Village. After having the breakfast start riding to Kokhsar via Rohtang La. Stop for some time at Rohtang pass to take capture the natural beauty in the camera. Later continue our journey to Kokhsar, the small town which can offer us the opportunity to have our lunch spend some time then start riding to Keylong via Tandi (It has the last petrol pump before Leh, around 380kms from Tandi). Tank up the bikes and move to Keylong (09 kms) the last place where hand phone will work before you arrive at Leh and also no mechanic will be available after Keylong.

Day 03: (July 20) : Keylong - Darcha (29kms) - Sarchu (134kms):
Morning continue the trip to Darcha. After reaching here take a break and tank up on supplies and make the necessary registrations at the check post. From here onwards roads are mostly in bad shape. From Baralacha La it is downhill but a bumpy ride up to Bharatpur. Reach Sarchu. Overnight stay at tent.

Day 04: (July 21) : Sarchu - Pang (80kms):
Get ourselves registered at the check post in Sarchu before proceeding to Pang Gata Loops- Nakee La (third pass on the Manali Leh route) - Lachulung La pass. Upon arrival at Pang, overnight stay at a tent.

Day 05: (July 22) : Pang - Upshi (125kms):
After registration at the check post at Pang continue the journey to Upshi through Tanglang La (17,582ft). Reach Upshi and spend the night here.

Day 06: (July 23) : Upshi - Leh (55kms):
After breakfast at Upshi continue our journey towards Leh on the Manali Leh highway. Reach Leh and fuel up your bikes, overnight stay in Leh

Day 07: (July 24) : Leh – Khardung La (40 kms) – Diskit (78):
Wake up early in the morning and get ready for the much awaited moments of visiting the Highest Motorable Road in the world, Khardung La. Start our journey early in the morning to avoid the traffic.
After break and photo shoot at Khardung La, proceed towards Khalsar (58 kms) via Pallu. Submit permits at Pallu and continue the journey to Khalsar which is the favourite stopover of taxi/bus operators for breakfast/lunch.
Take lunch at Khasar & after short break proceed to Diskit (20 Kms). At Diskit pay visit the ancient Diskit Gompa which was built in 1420AD. Overnight stay at Diskit

Day 08: (July 25) : Diskit – Sumur (32) – Penamic (25) - Khalsar (49 Kms).
In the morning ride to Hunder, you may see a few Double Humped, Hairy and Bactrian Camels. Enjoy an Optional Ride on Camels around the Sand Dunes of Hunder. Then ride Panamik and visit hot water spring and on the way back visit Samstalling and Sumur monastery. By evening reach Khalsar and overnight there.

Day 9: (July 26) : Khalsar – Leh (95)
Morning after breakfast, ride to Leh. En-route you cross the world highest mororable road, Khardung-la (5400m). Creating the history, cross the Khardung-la then ride down hill to Leh. From across here, capture and enjoy picturesque and amazing view of landscape of Leh town and Indus valley surrounded by snow covered huge Himalayan Mountains. Arrive Leh by afternoon, Post Lunch; relax for a couple of hour’s then short hike around Leh market. Overnight at hotel in Leh.

Day 10: (July 27) : Leh – Likir – Alchi – Ulleytokpo (72 km.)
After breakfast at the hotel we'll set out for Spituk and arrive after a ride of 8kms. From there we move further upto Alchi, 64 kms from Leh. Here you'll visit the 11th century Alchi Gompa- the only Gompa in Ladakh region on flat ground. On the way, you travel through spectacular and magnificent view of landscape and its beautiful mountains, sometime imposing gorge and you pass across Magnetic hill, confluence of Indus and Zanskar before Nimoo village; beautiful and charming villages of Ladakh. After Basgo, winding highway scenic for few meters and then open barren terrain till likir village. Leave highway towards the right and continue ride about more than 2kms up till Likir monastery and visit the splendid three storey Dhamma Wheel Gompa, which houses a massive Buddha statue. Then we'll proceed to the Uleytokpo camping ground for overnight camping.

Day 11: (July 28) : Ulleytokpo – Rizong – Lamayuru – Kargil (148 km.)
Post breakfast, Leave for Mulbek. Enroute you Rizong and Lamayuru monastery. Ride bike 1km from resort then take right hand side road at Gyera and enter into the stunning gorge. Continue ride up as far as Chulichan where you will find Nunnery with small temple. Further 3km ride takes you to Rizong monastery that picturesquely built on hill top with imposing view of surrounding wonderful mountains by Lama Tsultim Nima 150 years ago. This exquisite monastery is located in very isolated place in the middle of huge towering mountains. After the visit drive back to Gyera then continue ride onward to Mulbek.

Halt at Lamayuru to visit the beautiful Digung sect monastery, founded on hill top dominating the valley, by Lama Nyimagung. History says that great Mahasiddha Naropa visited this place and the sacred cave where he resided and meditated still to be seen inside the principle temple. After the visit, keep on ride to Mulbek by crossing Fotula-4090m (The highest motor road pass in the leh-Srinagar highway) as far as Kargil. You pass through several charming villages and spectacular landscape. Arrive at Kargil. Overnight at hotel.

Day 12: (July 29) : Kargil – Sonamarg - Srinagar (202 Kms)
After breakfast, continue your adventurous motorbike riding to Srinagar, 104 km from Kargil. Pass across Drass village (world's second coldest region after sebria), Zojila Pass (Gateway of Ladakh), Sonamarg (Meadow of gold), halt at Sonamarg for refreshment then continue to Srinagar. Arrive Srinagar (Paradise on earth). Overnight at House boat.

Day 13: (July 30) : Srinagar - Jammu (296 Kms)
Now time to ride for Jammu after breakfast, Nestling in the foothills of the Himalayas, with the river Tawi flowing alongside, due to many temples built here it is also known as city of temples. The main credit to pouplate this place goes to King Jambulochan. Jammu is the gateway of J&K situated on the bank of river Tawi. Overnight at hotel.

Day 14: (July 31) : Jammu (sightseeing)
A sightseeing tour of the city will follow soon after the breakfast. Will visit Ranbir Canal, Bahu Fort, Rani Charak Mahal, Amar Mahal Palace Museum and Dogra Art Museum. After lunch will explore Mubarak Mandi Palace, Surinsar Mansar Wildlife Sanctuary, Peer Khoh and Raghunath Temple. Thereafter, will go for a stroll in the local bazaar.

Day 15: (Aug 01) : Jammu - Pathankot (109 Kms) – Dalhousie (81)
Early morning after breakfast it’s time to say good bye to Kashmir and start ride to Dalhousie via Pathankot. After a halt at Pathankot for refreshment then continue to Dalhousie, Overnight stay at Dalhousie before go to sleep eat Gulab Jamun at Café Dalhousie, Walk from GPO to Subhash Chownk through Thandi Sarak,

Day 16: (Aug 02) : Dalhousie – Dharamsala (120)
After breakfast local sight seeing of Dalhousie which include Jandhrighat Palace, Subhash Bowli, Bara Pathar, Panjphulla, Subhash Chownk, GPO Dalhousie, Satdhara and the last but not least Old Churches of Dalhousie. After the sightseeing of Dalhousie ride to Dharamshala which is 120 Kms far. While reaching Dharamsala explore, Bhagsunag, Tibetan Markets, Naddi, Bhagsunag Temple and Waterfall, Tibetan Monastery, overnight stay at Mcleodganj

Day 17: (Aug 03) : Dharamsala – Chandigarh (282)
After breakfast departs for Chandigarh, which is the 1st planned modern city of India designed by the French architect Le Corbusier. Chandigarh is the capital city of two prosperous states Punjab and Haryana. Evening visit sector 17 market and Sukhna Lake. Night stay at hotel in Chandigarh.

Day 18: (Aug 04) : Chandigarh – Delhi (250)
Half day sight of chandigarh visiting Rock garden and Botanical garden. After lunch drive to New Delhi, reach home and have dinner while share the wonderful experience with everyone..

Planning to Visit Khardung La

Khardung La has its head in the clouds and its height in doubt. Khardung La is an amazing place and “only one in the world” experience. The sights on the way to and from this place are fantastic beyond words. Khardung La (la means pass in Tibetan) (elevation 5359 m) is a high mountain pass located in the Ladakh region, Jammu and Kashmir, India. The international spelling is used here, but it is locally spelt "Khardong La". This amazing pass on the Ladakh Range lies north of Leh and is the gateway to the Shyok and Nubra valleys. The Siachen Glacier lies partway up the following valley. Khardung La was built in 1976 and was opened to motor vehicles in 1988 and by then there have been many automobile, motorbike and mountain biking explorations. This area of Khardung La is maintained by the Indian Army\'s Corps, the pass is really important to India as it is used to carry various essential supplies to the Siachen.

Authentic Khardung La

Khardung La is historically important as, for centuries; Khardung La remained one of the highest points on any trade route anywhere in the world. The caravan trade (till the year 1949) used this pass to do business between Punjab and central asia. This route was a feeder to the famous “Silk Route” and could only be used in summer as the snow in winter would make it impossible to cross. About 10,000 horses and camels used to take the route annually, and a small population of Bactrian camels can still be seen in the area north of the pass, mute witnesses to history. During World War II there was a futile attempt to transfer war material to China through this route. Imagine the adventurers and traders of yester years travelling through these mountains with horses, mules, camels, sheep and yaks!

This pass is really a challenge to every biker from all corners of the world testing their conviction. Thin air and low oxygen levels makes riding to this pass even more difficult. Converge of tourists visit this pass in their SUVs and Bullets each year during mid June to mid October. Weather conditions can be unpredictable, and snowstorms can happen even in the height of the summer also. There can be a lot of heavy traffic on the road, especially Indian Army trucks. Acute Mountain Sickness is a serious risk, and visitors are not recommended to spend too long at the top.

It is probably an adage to use the word anxious when you are referring to Ladakh. But it is not every day that you drive up the towering mountains beyond 17000 feet, in the midst of stunning landscape and then immerse down to 10000 feet to rest in a picturesque valley. Vehicles travelling to and from Khardung La are allowed only in one direction at a time: from 9am - 1pm in the Leh – Khardug La direction, and from 1 pm - 5 pm from the Nubra Valley via Khardung La towards Leh.

"Every generation needs a journey story; every generation needs a story about what it is to be transformed by geography, what it is to be transformed by encounters with cultures and people that are alien from yourself, and you know that age group 15 to 25, that’s the perfect generation to get on a motorcycle, to hit the road, to put on your backpack and just go out."
— José Rivera, screenwriter, NPR [5]

We are planning to explore the world’s highest motorable road in the month of April/May 2012. Those who are likely to join our group can post a mail to wwilson.tom@gmail.com or shanky.panicker@gmail.com or you may even post your view and suggestion in the below comment box. The itinerary will publish after fixing the date.